Stock Socks v1.4

 

This is just a sock recipe or template rather than a specific pattern, where I've collected my favorite options for toes and heels together in one place for a toe-up sock with an afterthought heel.  I used two circular needles, though you could substitute DPNs or the magic loop method and use stitch markers to keep the stitches divided in half.  I like the two circs because I can try it on easily as I go.

 

Use any weight of yarn you want!  If using sock yarn, the label will give a good idea which needles to use for socks.  If using something heavier than sock yarn, choose needles about 2 or 3 sizes smaller than what's recommended on the label, for fabric sturdy enough to walk on.   The photos here are of some worsted weight yarn (Cascade 220 Quatro) knitted on US size 4 needles for a pair of short house socks.

 

Since this is more of a collection of my favorite sock bits, I've included the links to each technique in the text.  Just clicky clicky for videos and links to learn the ones that are new to you.  Each one is really easy, which is why they've become my favorites.  I'm pretty sure my most favorite discovery is the Russian grafting - no more kitchener stitch!

 

If making them one at a time, I keep a small index card in my project bag.  That's where I write how many stitches I increased the toe wedge up to (for this one in the photos, it was 48), and how many rounds the foot needed to reach my leg, how many rounds for the leg, and how many rounds for the cuff.  Then I noted how many rounds I knit even for the heel before decreasing, and how many I grafted.  It's pretty much designing-on-the-needle for the first sock, and by using those notes you can match up it's mate.

 

If you're an experienced sock knitter, you can see where a bit of patterning could be inserted along the foot and leg, using a favorite stitch or a bit of fair isle or mosaic color. 



 

Toe and Foot

1.   Using Judy's Magic Cast On, cast on a total of 16, 20, 24, or 28 stitches, depending on how blunt or pointy you want the toe to be

2.   round 1 - knit

3.   (edited 2/23/2013) * kfb, knit to 2 stitches before end of first needle, kfb, k1 * repeat for the other needle (the kfb are in different places so that the purl bumps they make will mirror each other)

4.   Repeat these two rounds until it reaches a snug size for the intended foot. 



5.      Knit all rounds until it finally reaches the front of your leg. 


raised recliner + knitting = kitty heaven!
I rarely knit alone since BeBe came into our lives.

 

 

Heel Set Up

1.      Use waste yarn to knit across half the stitches, to mark future heel placement.

2.      Go back to the working yarn and knit across that waste yarn.

 

Leg

Knit all rounds until an inch or two from the desired length, then work some ribbing for that last inch or two as the cuff

OR . . . . Rib the whole leg to desired length

Use JSSBO to bind off

Pick Up Them Heel Stitches (clicky clicky to see a great video showing how to do this)

 

Thumb-Joint Flat Top Heel

1.      Knit all rounds until this segment is the same length as from the recipient's thumb tip to the first thumb knuckle. 

 

 

 

2.  *k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1, * repeat for other half of stitches

3.      Repeat that decreasing round for every round until it's deep enough to fit the heel or until you have a third of the foot/leg stitches, whichever happens first 

4.      knit one last plain round

5.      Graft the remaining stitches, using the Russian grafting method

 

 

more footies made with Boku on size 4 needles
 

sock weight Noro Silk Garden on size 2 needles

 

DYO Cover

Design Your Own Cover

I'd wager that most folks who've used Judy's Magic Cast On have done so for them toe-up socks.  But I'll let you in on a little trick - it's dead useful for designing your own cozies for bottles, mason jars, candle votives, vases, pencil cups, soda cans, etc.  

We're used to seeing it with increases at the beginning and half way points of every round, for that wedge-shaped toe.  But what if . . . (Shatneresque pause) . . . we spaced more increases evenly around?  You'd get a flat circle, that really wants to be the base to a nifty cozy.

Check it out:

Use Judy’s Magic Cast On and start with 8 stitches (4 up and 4 down). Then use the following to make it a flat circle (instead of a toe wedge):

1- knit this and all odd rounds
2- kfb every stitch
4- *k1, kfb* repeat
6- *k2, kfb* repeat
8- *k3, kfb* repeat
10- *k4, kfb* repeat
12- *k5, kfb* repeat
 . . . and so on

See the pattern/formula/rhythm?  For each even row, there's an additional stitch in between the increases.  Of course, that kfb could be changed to your favorite method of make-1. 

Keep doing that until your flat circle fits the bottom of the thing you want to cover, like the base of that beer bottle, or mason jar, or soda can, etc.  Once you hit the target size, start knitting without any increases, which builds the walls straight up instead of around and around.

That's where you can insert your stitch of choice.  Something ribby to really grip that bottle?  Something lacey, maybe with nupps, to show off when you light a candle in the jar?  A touch of intarsia to decorate the pencil can cover?

If your stitch choice needs a total of more stitches than what you ended up with, you can always sneak in one or two extra increases on that first plain knit round.  I won't tell.

If you're gonna make a cover for a drink, you really want it to have a bottom.  If it's just a sleeve, no bottom,  the drink will slip right out when you go to pick it up.  Ask me how I know.  The java sleeves we've all seen patterns for are different, because most paper coffee cups slope upwards, acting as a sort of brake against gravity.  Not so with straight edged bottles and cans.

If you're gonna make a cover for a votive, be sure the votive's opening is wide enough to really vent the candle's heat, 'cause that cover will insulate it a bit.  Ahem, ask me how I know.  Thank goodness wool is fire retardant, that's all I'm sayin'. 

Stock Sock v1.3

I am really over having cold feet, so I have this dream of a drawer that’s overflowing with thick house socks! To see this dream made real before next winter, I need a pattern that’s really fast, really mindless, and that doesn’t have features that piss me off. You know, a stock, go-to pattern.
The part of the name, version 1.3, is due to it taking trials of three different short row techniques before I lit upon one I liked. It has no wraps and if you do the marker thing, it doesn’t even require counting. Much. The choice of yarn and needle sizes gives the thickness and the quickness. I recommend some superwash wool, since these will see a lot of wear. Self-striping yarn, like that in the photo, is like crack for this pattern!

• Size: 9-inch ball and you choose the length
• Worsted weight yarn
• Size US 5 needles (circulars or DPNs, your choice)
• 6 stitches/inch in Stockinette, and 9 rows/inch
• Total sock stitches = 54 (27 instep + 27 sole/heel)
• You’ll need two stitch markers to make the short rows easier

Short Row Toe
• Have two stitch markers within reach and ready to go
• Provisionally cast on 27 stitches, and then purl back across
• Knit 26, turn
• Slip 1, place marker, purl 24, turn
• Slip 1, place marker, knit to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• S1, pm, purl to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• S1, pm, knit to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• Repeat these last two steps until you have 9 stitches being held on either end, with 9 live ones in the middle between the markers
• For the second half of the toe, S1, pm, knit to the marker, set it aside, K2tog, make 1, turn
• S1, pm, purl to the marker, set it aside, P2tog, m1, turn
• Continue with these last two steps until you have just two stitches left being held on each end. Just knit across, knitting the first two held ones together (ditching that marker), and making one after them.
• Pick up the provisional stitches, place a marker, make one, knit the last two held ones together, and ditch that other marker. This sets you up for knitting the foot in the round, with just one marker placed to mark the beginning of your rounds.


FootKnit until just 2 inches short from the overall length you want. For my 9” foot, I’ll knit until the whole thing is 7”.
Note how many rows it took to get to this length:______ . You’re gonna want to repeat this when it comes time to match up this sock’s mate!


Short Row Heel
• Have two stitch markers within reach and ready to go. This will work up same as the toe did.
• Knit 26, turn
• Slip 1, place marker, purl 24, turn
• Slip 1, place marker, knit to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• S1, pm, purl to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• S1, pm, knit to the other marker, set it aside, turn
• Repeat these last two steps until you have 9 stitches being held on either end, with 9 live ones in the middle between the markers
• For the second half of the heel, S1, pm, knit to the marker, set it aside, K2tog, make 1, turn
• S1, pm, purl to the marker, set it aside, P2tog, m1, turn
• Continue with these last two steps until you have just two stitches left being held on each end. Just knit across, knitting the first two held ones together (ditching that marker), and making one after them.
• Knit the next 17 stitches, then place a marker, make one, knit the last two held ones together, and ditch that other marker. This sets you up for knitting the leg in the round, with just one marker placed to mark the beginning of your rounds. Sound familiar already? After making it’s mate too, you’ll be able to make more of these without looking at the pattern anymore. I promise.

Leg & Cuff• Knit a few rounds for the leg, for as long as you either feel like it, or until you think you have just enough yarn to make an inch or two of cuff. Again, note how many rounds ya did ______, so you can match it up when knitting its mate.
• Now choose a ribbing that you like, and rib that thing for an inch or two.
• You’ll want an elastic bind off with which to finish. I used, and highly recommend, Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, becoming known as the JSSBO, ‘cause we knitters are just that kind of efficient.
You’ll find the original posting of it at on Knitty.com .

Preemie IV Cover

Preemie IV Cover

IV ain’t the Roman numeral 4, but for intravenous access as preemies get their little IVs inserted into their little heads. I know, but it is the best place for it, and it is where they’ll go. I wanted a cap that would allow that, and it ended up with the bonus of needing a button – yay! Something to decorate with, while we’re at it! And this wee little button will go right in the front of the cap, so Baby won’t be lying on it, and tubing won’t snag on it. The back flap is roomy enough to actually close over the IV insertion, with gaps to allow the tubing somewhere to go, so this functions as an IV cover as well.
I also aimed to eliminate seaming since that’s a no-go with delicate preemie heads. When weaving in the end tails, be mindful of where you hide them, since the flap will likely be open a lot, making parts of the cap’s inside visible.

You’ll need
DK or light aran weight yarn, machine washable
US size 6 needles, straights and a set of DPNs
stitch marker, locking or split type
2 stitch holders or some waste yarn
One cable needle (but there’s no cabling in this)
darning needle

Gauge is roughly 6 inches per stitch in stockinette, but not crucial. Don’t worry if your hat is a bit smaller or bigger than others, as preemies come in all sizes too. Also, the reason it has such a proportionately generous brim is to allow for folding it wherever that particular baby needs it to be folded. Don’t worry; I promise it will fit someone.

Back Flap

Cast on 3 with DPNs, mark these cast on stitches with your cable needle by sliding it through the stitches (see photo), and then work an I-cord for an inch as if that cable needle wasn’t even dangling right there.

Bring those cast on stitches up to the DPN and transfer them to it for the button loop (you’re done with that cable needle).

Purl across these 6 stitches, transferring them to one of your straight needles.

Row 1: k1, m1R, k4, m1L, k1

Row 2: k3, purl to the last three, k3

Row 3: k3, m1R, knit to the last four stitches, m1L, k3

repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 30 stitches. At this point, use a split or locking stitch marker to mark one of the end stitches (doesn’t matter which end).

Row 1: k3, purl 24, k3

Row 2: knit across

repeat rows 1 and 2 until it measures 2 inches from the marker (you can ditch the marker when it does).

Cut yarn and transfer all the stitches to a stitch holder. Place it aside for a bit, while you move on to making the front panel.

Front panel
Cast on 16 stitches

Row 1: k3, purl to the last three stitches, k3

Row 2: k3, m1R, knit to the last four stitches, m1L, k3

Row 3: k3, purl to the last three stitches, k3

repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a total of 30 stitches

Cut yarn and transfer all the stitches to a DPN

Brim
Using your DPNs, you’re going to join the two pieces while also getting your brim stitches out of this little maneuver.

Transfer the flap onto 3 DPNs (six stitches on one, 18 on another, and six on the third).

Here comes the weird part, but it’s the part that makes this whole thing work. You’re going to overlap six stitches on both sides, so that the flap overlaps on the outside and the front panel on the inside. Lay the flap’s DPN with the six stitches over the first six stitches of the front panel. Using another DPN, add more yarn by knitting into a stitch from both pieces as if they were one, similar to the three-needle bind off. Do this with the remaining 5 stitches to be overlapped.

knit the next 18 stitches on the front panel, then repeat the overlapping maneuver for the last 6. Yes, it is a little fussy, but it’s only six stitches and those are only in this one row; it’ll all be easy peasy after this, I promise.

knit into the remaining 18 stitches. You should have a total of 48 stitches on your DPNs (or circ, if you prefer).

Now just work a k1p1 ribbing for two inches, and then bind off very loosely. Fold brim and pat yourself on the back!

Hybrid Bag

Hybrid Bag
I looked at and knitted up several patterns for shopping bags, only once following the pattern as written. And none of them were exactly what I wanted. This one is the hybrid that I like the best, and is the first one I reach for while shopping. I kept the features I liked with tweaks, and eliminated the ones I didn’t (it’s Frankensteined, lol). It has the longer handle that doesn’t grow, I added ribbing to the opening to hug things in, and I used a stitch repeat that gives a very stretchy fabric but without the big holes. Once you’ve carried groceries from your trunk to the kitchen on your shoulders, you’ll wonder why you ever tried hauling all that in just your hands before.
When you get to the bottom of the bag and begin decreasing, you will need to switch to a shorter circular. Other options are using two circs or the magic loop method.

• US size 8 circulars
• Stitch markers
• Any DK or worsted weight, since gauge ain’t crucial (you’ll need about 400 – 600 yards)

HANDLES
Cast on 40, pm, cast on 85, pm, cast on 40, pm, cast on 85, pm (250 total)
Rounds 1 – 8: Join, being careful not to twist the stitches, and work garter stitch for the long segments and k1p1 rib for the shorter segments.
Round 9: bind off the stitches on the longer sections and continue in ribbing for the shorter sections. Be sure to bind off loosely, or the tighter edge here will cause the handle to dig into your shoulder – ask me how I know (80 total)
Round 10: replace marker, cast on an additional 20 stitches, continue in the ribbing pattern across the next 40 stitches (rejoining the round), cast on another 20 stitches, continue ribbing the final 40 stitches (120 total)
Rounds 11 - 15: Rib all around, maintaining the pattern already established in earlier ribbing
Round 16: Prepare for the body of the bag by k3, inc, (k6, inc) 18 times, k3, inc, k3 (140 total)Round 17: knit around

BODY
Round 1: knit around
Round 2: (yo1, k1) around
Round 3: (drop yo, k1) around
Repeat rows 1-3 until you’ve made about 2/3 of the desired length of the bag (which will be at least 2/3 the height of aluminum wrap and cereal boxes)

BOTTOM
Round 1: Knit around, placing a marker after every 20th stitch
Round 2: (yo1, k1) around
Round 3: (drop yo, k1) around
Round 4: (k2tog, knit to marker, pm) around.
Round 5: (yo1, k1) around
Round 6: drop yo, k1) around
Repeat rounds 4-6 until you have 98 stitches remaining (14 stitches per segment)
Round 7: purl around
Round 8: (k2tog, knit until 2 stitches before marker, ssk, pm) around
Repeat rounds 7 and 8 until just 14 stitches remain.

Here, you have one of two options. Using a darning needle, run the tail (be sure it’s long enough) through the remaining stitches several times and cinch it up. Or divide those stitches between two needles, and apply the 3-needle bind off. Weave in your ends and shop your hiney off.

We all need a set of bags to bring home a week’s worth of groceries without using the store’s plastic ones. Why not make one of each from different patterns? Just a quick google brought up a nice list of free patterns. Ravelry has several as well, and if you’re not yet on Ravelry, get thee over there right now!

Abbreviations
pm = place or pass marker
k1p1 = knit 1, purl 1
inc = increase
yo = yarn over
k2tog = knit 2 together

iPod Sock

"Start as you mean to go on" is a phrase I first heard on Brenda Dayne's podcast Cast On. And this is kinda weird doing a first post. So I thought I'd start, well, as I mean to go on.

I'd like this to be where I share my design processes, as well as ramblings, so here goes with the first pattern (even if it is a little dinky one).

iPod Sock

• Lion Brand Magic Stripes sock yarn


• US size 4 straight needles (you'll need three)

1. CO 30 stitches, using straight needles.


2. Work 1x1 ribbing for 1/2 inch.


3. Work stockinette for 3 1/2 inches, until the entire thing totals 4 inches.


4. Divide them on two needles, and BO using the 3-needle BO method and right sides together. Seam up the remaining open side.

I made a really long I-cord for a strap, so I could wear it around my neck. This being a quickie project, the self-striping yarn was a hoot to use. It only took me about 2 hours to finish.